Ocean Waves

Summary
A lesson on the physical science of ocean waves. The reading is accompanied by true/false questions.

Objectives
• To introduce students to the physical science associated with ocean waves, hurricanes and tsunamis.

Suggested Grades
6th Grade
7th Grade
8th Grade

Excerpt
The vast ocean that covers over seventy percent of Earth is in constant motion. One type of motion that occurs throughout the ocean is wave motion which is caused by local winds. Waves caused by local winds are called simply wind waves. Once a wave is formed, it travels across the surface of the ocean. Most of the water molecules affected by a wave do not travel forward; instead the energy and momentum of the wave passes through the water. This is why sea birds bob in the water, remaining in the same spot as the waves pass beneath them.

Wind Waves
Three main factors are involved with wind waves: 1) wind velocity; 2) fetch length; and 3) how long the wind has blown in the area. However, this is a greatly simplified explanation of the complex phenomena involved with wind waves. Fetch length, or fetch, is a term used by geographers and meteorologists that refers to the distance the wind has blown over open water such as in the ocean.

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